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Manual Sears 385. 1254180

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  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 1

    OWNER'_ MANUAL MODELS 385. 1274180 385. 1264180 Or 385. 1254180 ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 2

    SEARS. ROEBUCK AND CO. Dear Customer; You have just {nvested m a very fine zigzag sewing machine. Before using your new Kenmore machine, please pause for a moment and carefully read this booklet which contains instructions on how to operate and care for your machine. Specific instructions are g_ven on threading, tension adiustments, cleamng, oiling ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 3

    TABLEOFCONTENTS SECTION 1. SECTION 2. SECTION 3. t<NOW YOUR MACHINE A Portable Case or Cabinet is Available .......... 2 Locate and Identify the Parts .............. 2_3 Identify the Accessories ................. 4 PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING Set Up the Machtne ................... 5_8 o Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power ..... 5 o F ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 4

    A:Portable Case OtCabinet is Avaiiasie : A full line of sewing cabinets is available at your nearest Sears retail store or through our general catalog. Another option , , _ buy a Carrying Case , , , then your Kenmore goes anywhere, can be stored any- where. --__"-_ ;_ _ 2 LoCate and identify the Parts Bobbin Winder Tension Disc Upper Thread Gu ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 5

    Clutch Knob Hand W heel L_gllt and Power Sw_tet_ Ptug Conneclor Thread Spool Pins Top Cover Nomenclature Plate Thread Guide Presser Fool Lever Free Arm Presser Foot Foot Con_ro_ Thread Guide Thread Guide Needle Clamp ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 6

    Identify the AcCeSsories _Bu tonho[e opener __LLarge screw driver 4 Slrmgh_ stitch Hoot . Spool pm tell Buttonhole {_ %_ Zipper fool /1 ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 7

    Set Up the Machine = Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power f- swRch Power supply plug supply Machine socket Machfne plug NOTE: Before insarUng the plug into your machine, be sure the power switch is OFF, I. Check your outlet to be sure st Is a 110 to 120 Volt AC outlet. 2. Insert the machine plug into the three-prong machine socket, as show ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 8

    set Upthe Macine (Continued) Setting Spool Pins Spool pin Spool Pins are packed _n accessory box. Screw thread spool pins in place securely with a screw driver. Position spool pin felts as shown _n illustra- tion. For winding the bobbin while your machine is threaded, you can use an extra spool pm without unthreading the macine. Adjust the Presser ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 9

    • Free-Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension Table To remove : To Remove the Extension Table (for free-arm sewing) 1. Grzp the table with your index finger and thumb, as shown. 2, Pull gent_y to the left. The extension table wilt snap out, To Attach: To Attach the Extension Table (for fiat-bed sewing) 1. Insert the tab and the pm into their catches ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 10

    : setl Up the MaChine (Continued}: .... = Free-Arm Sewing (Continued) Your sewing machine can do free arm sewing. This feature makes sewing easy for: bar tacking to reinforce pockets. * stitching sleeves, waistbands, pant belt toops and waistline on ready- legs, or any circutar garment area. made or homemade garments to avoid fabric bunching around ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 11

    The Presser feet are an _mportant feature of th_s machine. You need to know what each footdoes in order to use them effectivefv. a Change the Presser Foot Use the correct presser foot for tile st=tch you w_sh to sew. Consult the practical Stitch Chart on pages 23 _ 25 and the detailed directions for sewing with the various presser feet. To change t ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 12

    Know What the Presser Feet Will:Do (Continued) o Presser Foot Types (Continued) Buttonhole Guide Foot f Bu;_onho_e guide foot Use thts foot for buttonholes, it is marked to measure your buttonholes accurately, Uses: Buttonhole making (see p. 39} Zipper Foot Zipper toot This foot can be set to sew on each side of your zipper, The edges of the foot g ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 13

    Choose Your Needle and Thread Your choice of needle and thread depends on the fabric you are sewing in your needle case, you will find the following color-coded needles: Blue (1 1 ) ........... for stretch fabrics Orange (11 ) ....... for lightweight fabrics Red (14) ............ for reed;urn or medium-heavv weight fabrics Purple (16} ........ for ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 14

    Choose :Your Needle and Thread (Continued) Fabric, Needle. Thread and Stitch Length Chart FABRIC Lightwe=ght: Batiste, Dimity, Chiffon, Silks, Fine Lace, Organza, Crepe_ Taffeta, Voile, Organdy Medium Weight: Cotton, Cotton Blends, Percale. Gingham, Shantung, Pique, Seersucker, Satin. Knits, Vinyl Suitmgs, Linen, Wool Crepe. Leather Medium Heavy We ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 15

    Prepare the Bobbin o To Remove the Bobbin Case from the Nlachine Remove the extension table from the machine by pulling it to the left. Open the shuttle cover by purling down the embossed part on the left rode of the cover. Ra+se needle to its highest pos+tlon bv rotat+ng hand wheel toward you. To remove bobb+n case from shut- tle, pull open latch ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 16

    Prepare the Bobbin :(Continued) = Wind the Bobbin (Continued) f j / Draw thread from spool through bobbin winder tension disc as shown. ......... i ¸¸ iiiii!! iiii i: i d ¸ii Putl end of thread through hole bobbin as shown, 7 in Place bobbin onto bobbin winder spindle with end of thread coming from the top of the bobbin. Push bobbin winder shaft ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 17

    = insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Case Place bobbin _n bobbin case Pull thread through slot of case Pull thread under tension Holding latch open. positlon Case should loci< into place making sure thread feeds clock- as shown, spring and through the opening case into shuttle and release when latch is released, wise and Js coming from as shown ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 18

    Prepare Your Top Thread € Thread Your Needle @ The numbered steps below follow the numbers on the illustrations. Dotted lines show places where the thread loops and then is pulled tight, Raise thread take-up lever to its highest position by turning hand wheel toward you. Raise presser foot _ever, Place spool on spool pin as shown, with thread com ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 19

    i ¸¸ i i i!ii !! i¸ii i iiii i i ii i !i i i i!il ! = _EFo1R SE 5, Draw thread down and Into th read gu ida. 6. Pull the thread to the left and slip _t through the thread guide, 7. Thread then is slipped into needle bar thread guide. 8. Thread needle from front to back. NOTE: You may want to cut the end of the thread with sharp scissors for eas_ ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 20

    Adjust the Top Thread Tension i Top side of fabric thread Setting mark Loose__ Tighten For Straight Stitch The ideal straight stitch will have threads locked between the two layers of fabric, as shown above, magnified to show detail. if you look at the stitch, front and back, you wiJl notice that there are no gaps. that each stitch _s smooth and ev ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 21

    For Zigzag Stitch In the correct zigzag stitch, the bobbin threads witl not show on top of the fabric and the top threads will show slighttv on the under side, See below for the correct appearance, To match thts appearance, adjust your top thread tension, Too Tight Too Loose Just R ight Top Side of Fabr{e Under Side of Fabric Under Side of Fabric T ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 22

    Stitch Selector IVlode___l 12741 Model 12641 Model 12541 Se_[mg mark Setting mark Setting rnarkx.Nk The stitch selector control not onty determines the statch you select, but also regulates the stitch width for regular zigzag and rick rack stretch stitches. The different types of stitches are designated by cotor. Straight, Zigzag and Utility Stitch ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 23

    Stitch Length Controt Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance Reverse Stitch Control 6 8 12240 i i The stitch length control regulates the length of the stitch. The htgher the number, the shorter the stitch. 0 means no feed. in stretch stitch sewing, Stitch Length Control should be tn the detent posi- tion between S and L ( v position) for most materials. ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 24

    Starting To Sew Now that you are familiar with the controls on your machine and with the accessories provided for the machine, you are readv to start to sew with your new Kenmore sewing machine, Below are some good habits to foNow each time you sit down to sew: 1. Inspect the needle. It should be straight, properly set and sharp on the point. It sh ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 25

    Stitch Foot Other Thread Stttch Uses Refer to Page Stitch Selecto r Attach. Tens=on Length Darmng 2 _ 6 6 _ 12 Regular seams, zippers, topstitchlng, darning, 26 _ 28 STRAIGHT (_ plate mvmible z_pper, cording, etc. 41 ~ 43 STRAIGHT STRETCH ZIGZAG RICK-RACK STRETCH MENDING IH Straight Zigzag Straight Zigzag Zigzag Zigzag Zigzag Needle Check Chart on ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 26

    Practical Stitch Chart (Continued) Stitch Other Needle Thread Stitch Selector Attach. Tens=on Length 1_4 S V L Use m smocking or as e decorat=ee stitch, Stitch SMOCKING STITCH BLIND HEM STITCH BLIND HEM STITCH (STRETCH) OVERCAST ST R ETCH BUTTONHOLE 24 ,[3 Foot Zigzag Zigzag Zigzag Buttonhole Check Chart on p. 12 , Cheek Chart on p, 12 Check Chart ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 27

    Practical Stitch Chart (Continued) Stitch SATIN STITCH SHELL STITCH (Models1241and 12642) SERGING (Models 12741 and 12642) BOX STITCHING {Model 12741 ontV) ELASTIC STRETCH (Model 12741 onlvl Stitch Selector Foot Satin Zigzag Zigzag Zigzag Zigzag Other Attach. Use paper underneath Needle Check Chart on p. 1_22 Check Chart on p. 1_22 Blue (11 onp. 12 ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 28

    Straight Stitches Straight Stitch Set the Machine S t Itch sr_lector U Stitch length Top thread tension control 6 to 12 control 2 to 6 /S_ Straight toot Zigzag toot NOTE_ Best sewing results are obtained with the strmght stitch foot, but the zigzag foot will also provide acceptable results. 26 Before sewing with the straight stitch foot, be sure th ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 29

    a f Use the Darning Plate Sometimes when you sew, you want to controt the fabric Vouself. The Darning Plate covers the feed dogs so that they do not touch the fabric. To Put on the Darning Plate: NOTE: The rectangular holes in the Darning Plate match the holes in the needle plate. In the darning plate, these holes are slightly to the left of center ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 30

    Darning Set the Machine Stitch selector Top thread tension control 1 to 4 No presser tOO[ Stitch length Any number {not necessary tO adiust) Darning pJate Here's How 1. 2. 3, 4, 5. 6. NOTE: Put the darmng plate over the needle plate (see p. 27), Remove presser foot, stretch fabnc between embroidery hoops with hole centered. Draw the bobbin thr ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 31

    Zigzag Stitches Basic Zigzag Set the Machine Stitch setector Top thread tension control 2 to 5 Zigzag foot Stitch length 6 to 24 The Stitch and its Uses The zigzag stitch is one of the most common and most versatile stitches on your machine, It can be a utilitv stitch for sewmg buttons, buttonholes, hem- ming, overcasting, mending and darn- ing, it ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 32

    SECTION N THE STITC = Satin Stitch f Set the Machine [ Stitch selector Top thread tension control I to 4 Stitch length Blue zone The Stitch and Its Uses The Satin stitch is a versatile and often used decorative stitch, but it can also be used to overcast a raw edge (for ex- ample, bJankets, linens, tablecloths and napkins). The Satin stitch is espe ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 33

    Zigzag Stitches (Continued) = Applique Set the Machine Stitch selector ! Stitch length Biue Zonec_=:t to 2_ Top thread tension CoP, tFOI 1 to 4 _.J_ _°_ Sattr_ sUtch toot / Baste {or fuse with _romon fabric Ioiner) appiique pieces on the fabric, Stitch around the applique making sure the needle falls atong the outer edge of the applique. When sewi ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 34

    Zigzag Stitches (Continued) o Monogramming Set the Math+he St+tch selector ! Top thread tecs_on ¢ontro_ ] to 4 Stitch length 0 to 24 ! Sa_+n stitch foot 32 3, Set the same as satin stitch, Here's How 1. 2. Back the fabric with paper or interfacing. Draw the demgn on to the fabr+c with tailor's chalk. 4. Satin stitch+ adjusting the stitch ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 35

    o Sewa Button Set the Machine St _ [ch selector I "Top thread tension Stitch length control I [o 4 Any number (not necessary _,o adiusd Z_gzag foot "i__ Darning plate Use the darning plate for button sewing (see p, 27), 1, 2. 3. 4. 5. Set the pattern selector at " @ " Align the both holes of the button with the slot of the foot ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 36

    Zigzag Stitches (Continued) = Overcasting Stitch Set the M_chme Stitch selector I Stitch leoglh Top thread tension 12 to 24 controt ! to 4 ._ @ Zigzag foot The Stitch and Its Uses This zigzag variation ]s very useful in garment construction and _n finishing raw edges of any sewing proiect. Helpful Hints Start overcasting about 1/8" inside the ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 37

    Zigzag Stitches (Continued) Mending Set the Machine Stitch selector Top thread tension control 1 to 4 Stitch length Blue ZoneC::tto 24 Zigzag foot The Stitch and Its Uses The three-step zigzag is a combination zigzag and straight stitch. You may use the three-step z_gzag everywhere you would use the basic zigzag stitch. It has more strength, elasti ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 38

    iii! i ! : i!iiiil i i! ! i i i ii i Overcast Stretch Stitching Setthe Machine St}tct_ length control 1 to 4 .... _._.4_ -,, Zigzag loot The Stitch and its Uses Th_s stitch can be used for sewing a seam with an overcast finish. The seam is formed and finished m one operat_om It can be used when VOU are making swimwear, ski pants and other garments ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 39

    Blind Hemming Set the Machine Stitch selector Top thread tension control 1 to 4 Stitch length Set the Machine St=rob selector _ {Stretch} Top thread tension control 1 to 4 Stitch length 8 to 2_ _Z_gzag foot L_ght Weight Fabric 1/8"to 114" Heavv Weight Fabric There are two blind hem stitches on your machine. The regular blind hem is used f ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 40

    ;ECTION LaceWork Set the Machina Stitch selector Stitch length 24 Top thread tension controt I to 4 Zigzag foot Lace adds a fanciful, femtnine touch to blouses and lingerte. Table linens and pillows become more elegant when trimmed with ]ace. Turn raw edge of fabric under at least 1/2". Place lace underneath and top- stitch using stretch blind ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 41

    Buttonholes Set the Machine ,D 2 _4" 4 Top thread tension controt ] to 5 Shtch selector 1 Stitch tength Blue Zone G:::/ 0 £_%ttonhole guide foot Adjusting the Stitch Density Depending upon your fabric or your own preference in buttonholes, you may alter the buttonhole stitch density within the blue buttonhole range on the stitch length dial. ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 42

    Buttonholes (Continued) 4, a. Set the stitch selector at _"_14 b. Sew 4 to 6 stitches. c, Stop sewing at the rtght stitch. 5, a, Set the stitch selector at [_L b, Sew until you reach the back of the buttonhole. c. Stop sewing at the right stitch, 6. a. Set the stitch selector at=_. b, Sew 4 to 6 stitches, c, Stop sewing at the left stitch, 7. ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 43

    Sew in a Zipper: Set the Machme St=tch selector Top thread tenstot_ control 3 tO 6 Stitch length 12 ot openmg Top edge of fabric Fabric Preparation: Put the top sides of the fabric together and sew to the end of the zipper opemng, Use the reverse to iock the stitches. Sew the zipper opening wroth stitch length at "6" and top thread tensio ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 44

    Sew in a Zipper (Continued) 8. Open the zipper. 9, Lower the presser foot and stitch the rest of the seam. 42 J 10, Close the zipper and turn the fabric top side up. INVISIBLE ZIPPER AND CORDING INVISIBLE ZIPPER Adiust the toot so the needle _s sewing through the center hole ot the foot and one 8roove of the foot ts riding on the teeth of the zippe ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 45

    Shell Stitch ing (M odels 12741 and ;12641) Set the Machine Stitch selector 1 Top thread tension control 3 to 9 Zigzag foot Strtch length t 2 to 24 The Stitch and Its Uses The Shell Stitch is formed by sewing a blind hem over folded fabric. Several rows of shell stitching are called shell tucks. Shell stitching can be used to finish hems_ s_eeve an ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 46

    Elastic Stretch Stitch (Model 12741 only) Set the Machine Top thread ten_;_on S[_[eh length eon[roI i [0 4 Zigzag foot Choose tf_ls stitch to attach elastic to garments. 1. Mark the eSastlc into quarters and match these to the center front, center back and stale seams, 2. Place the m_ddle of the elastic under the center of the presser foot and stit ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 47

    What to Do When PROBLEM irregular Stitches Breaking Needle Bunching of Thread Puckering i i PROBABLE CAUSE Incorrect size needle. Improper threading. Loose upper thread tension. Pulling fabric. Loose presser foot. Unevenly wound bobbin, Nicks or burrs at hole of needle plate. Pulling fabric. Incorrect size needle. Incorrect setting of needle. Loose ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 48

    What to Do When (Continued) PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE ! CORRECTION Incorrect s_ze needle. Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric. Certain knits and synthetics. Use "Q NEEDLE'/., Skipping Stitches Bent or blunt needle, insert new needle, Incorrect setting of needle, Reset needle. Tight upper thread tension. Loosen upper thread tensi ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 49

    Replace the Light Bulb Cleaning the Machine i t 1. Unplug the machine and open the face cover. CAUTION! The tight bulb will be HOT, Protect your fingers when you handle it, 2. 3. Push the bulb up and turn the bulb counter-clockwise to remove it. Put the new bulb mbv pushing it up and turning it clockwise. To insure that your machine operates at its ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 50

    = Clean the Shuttle Race This area must be kept free of dust, lint and occasional tangied thread, Ctean the shuttle race area about every three months, Center pm of the shuttle v r case J To Ctean the Shuttle Area: 1. Raise the needle bar to its h_ghest point and remove the bobbin case. 2. Push shuttle race levers aside. Lift shuttle race cover and ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 51

    Oiling the Machine !:: : =: ..... .... Oil the machine m all areas shown on the next two pages at least once a year; otherwise the machine can become sluggish or will knock loudly, tf you use the machine frequently, oil the machine under the top cover about every three months, In case machne _s not used for an extended t_meo oil It before sewing. U ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 52

    Oil the Underside t t !i,lili_ ii!i _I!_'I! !i° _! _ !!_, !ii_ii'i _ i_i i_ii_ !_i,i _i_i_'! _ , _ _ Oit the underside at least once a year. Tilt machine head back and remove bottom covers. Oil points indicated on underside of machine. To remove bottom covers, remove screws (A), (B) and (C) as shown. 5O ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 53

    PARTS LIST 1 2 7 3 9 10 tl 12 14 !5 21 22 16 17 18 6 23 13 19 20 7 All parts listed herein may be ordered from any Sears, Roebuck and Co, store or serv{ce center. WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION: 1. PART NUMBER 2, PART DESCRIPTION 3. MODEL NUMBER 4. NAME OF ITEM If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your o ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 54

    INDEX A Appliqueing ................... 25, 31 B Bar tacking ................. 23, 31 Base .......................... 2 Basic zigzag ................ 21.29 Blind hemming ................. 24, 37 Bobbin ................ 4, 13_15, 51 Bobbin case ............... t3. 15,48, 51 Bobbin thread ................ 17_18 Bobbin winding ............ !3_14 Box s ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 55

    WARRANTY FULL 25-YEAR WARRANTY ON SEWING MACHINE HEAD For 25 years from the date of purchase, Sears wi!l. free of charge, repair defects in mater_al or workmanship which appear {)_ in the mechanical components of the sewing machine head. # # FULL TWO YEAR WARRANTY ON ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT OF SEWING MACHINE _ For two years from the date of purchase, ...

  • Sears 385. 1254180 - page 56

    SEWING MACHINE Now that you have purchased your Kenmore Sewing Machine, should a need ever exist for repair parts on service, simply contact your nearest Sears Service Center. Be sure to provide all pertinent facts when you call or visit. The model number of your Sewing Machine will be shown on your nomenclature plate on the back of your Sewing Mac ...

Manufacturer Sears Category Sewing Machine

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